Rayのドイツ音楽留学レポート 【第44回 】ドイツの街並み

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こんにちは、Rayです。私はドイツで音楽の勉強をしている大学院生で、オーボエという楽器を専攻しています。

5月に入ってやっと、私の住む街の桜が満開になりました。こちらではソメイヨシノより八重桜が多く見られます。先日訪れた市の植物園では、フリフリに広がった濃いピンクの花を楽しむ人でいっぱいでした。その他、最近は郊外に広がる菜の花畑も見頃を迎えました。世界が鮮やかな色でいっぱいになって、毎日ウキウキします。

さて今回は、ドイツの街並みに見られる特徴について、私の住む街ロストックの例を中心にご紹介します。

ドイツの街は

日本は東京・大阪を始め大都市に人口が集中していますが、ドイツには都市が各地にあって人口が分散しています。Wikipediaによると、日本の100万都市は仙台市など12市あるのに対しドイツは4市です。そのかわり、頑張れば主要エリアを一日で歩いて回れる規模の中小都市がたくさんあるように思います。

中央駅は市街地から離れた位置にある

まずドイツの多くの街の中心部は、地名があるかどうかは別として中央駅のエリアと新市街・旧市街のエリア(市街地)に分けられます。電車から降りると、街によって規模は違えどもパン屋やキオスク、本屋、コインロッカーなどが並ぶ中央駅構内を抜けて街に出ます。ベルリンなどの大都市の中央駅にはお土産屋やファッション専門店などもあるので、乗り換えの合間にショッピングすることができます。とはいっても日本の駅ビルや地下街などよりは小規模です。

新市街や旧市街に見どころが多いのですが、中央駅からは距離があることが多いです。例えば私の住んでいるロストックは、中央駅から路面電車で3駅先に市街地の入り口があり、徒歩では15分ほどかかります。多くの街の中央駅付近には鉄道会社経営のホテル(Intercity Hotel)を始めホテルや、駅前の青空市場、路面電車やバスのなどの停留所、ロストックにはありませんがショッピングセンターなどがあります。

街の中心部

 教会の展望台から市の中心部を見下ろすと、建物の色に統一感があるのがわかります。

多くの街に、新市街、旧市街などと呼ばれるエリアがあります。

新市街というとモダンな響きがしますがそれほど新しくはなく、おそらく中世の城塞都市の中心エリアである旧市街と比較すると新しい、という意味だと思います。新市街の建築物は、築100年のものからごく最近作られたモダンな建物までバラエティに富んでいます。

ロストックには新市街がありますが旧市街はなく、市街地をまとめてStadtmitte(街の中心)と呼んでいます。そのStadtmitteの中に歴史的な建造物や観光名所が集まっています。私の通う音大もこの市街地の中にあり、校舎は13世紀から続く(17世紀に大火事のため損壊・再建)美しい建物です。

かつて修道院だった建物を現在、音大の校舎として使っています。

マルクト広場

マルクトとは市場を表すドイツ語で、多くの街の中心にマルクト広場があります。

ロストックには新マルクト、旧マルクトという2つの広場があります。

新マルクト、Neuer Markt(ノイアーマルクト)は市庁舎のそばに広がっていて、路面電車の停留所があったり、お店やレストランなどが並ぶメインストリートが延びていたりといつも賑わっています。日曜日以外は毎日マーケットが開かれて、八百屋、肉屋、チーズ屋、パン屋、花屋などの販売車が集まります。クリスマスマーケットやイースターマーケット、陶器市などが開催されるのもこのNeuer Marktです。また広場のそばには、中心部では最大の教会であるマリエン教会があります。

旧マルクト、Alter Marktは市街地の中でも閑静なエリアで、聖ペトリ教会の前に広がっています。今は静かで、ほっと一息つける場所になっています。

市庁舎

広場のそばに市庁舎がある街が多いです。ロストックの市庁舎は写真のようにピンク色のかわいい建物で、街のお土産などにデザインとしてよく描かれています。他の街でも、例えば南ドイツのミュンヘンの市庁舎にはからくり時計があり観光名所となっています。

門と城壁

門と城壁。通りを示すプレートには(Hinter der Mauer 壁の裏)と書いてあります。

ドイツには、中世の城塞都市が元になった街が数多くあります。街を囲う壁の中に市場、教会、市政を行う場所、修道院や大学などがすべて揃っていて、門番が街への出入りを管理し、門の近くから延びる道を通って中心部にたどり着く、という街構造が残っています。そのため、中世の門と城壁で囲われた内部に主要な観光名所が集まっているのです。(ただ、内部の街の中心部にも、市庁舎のように近世以降に作られた建物もたくさんあります。)

ロストックも城塞都市を起源とした街です。郷土資料館の展示によると、門と城壁が世界大戦による損壊、街の復興などを経て一部の門と城壁だけが残る現在の状態になったそうです。

城壁がある程度の長さ続いているエリアがあり、そこに行くとタイムスリップしたような気持ちになります。

教会

それぞれの街には教会が複数ありますが、マリエン教会(聖母教会)、ペトリ教会、ニコライ教会、ヨハネス教会といったキリスト教の聖人の名前の付いた教会が多くの街に存在します。私の認識では教会は街を囲うかのように位置しているので、知らない中小都市に行くときは地図で教会の場所を探して市街地の範囲を把握してみることがあります。またマリエン教会は街の中でも特に大きくて周辺は賑わっている、と認識しているので、街歩きをするときにはまずマリエン教会付近に寄ってみます。

まとめ

このように、スタイルの異なる建築物が隣り合わせになっています。

明確な根拠があるわけではありませんが、これまで私がドイツの街を旅したり、博物館の展示を見たりした結果、ロストックのような城塞都市が元となった街には、これまで述べたような特徴があると思っています。

また、ドイツには地震がないので古い建物が残り続けます。中世に作られた教会や城壁と近世以降に作られた市庁舎などの建築物、世界大戦後に作られたシンプルなデザインの住宅などが混在し、日本とは全く違う街並みを作っています。

最後までお読みいただきありがとうございます。次回は、528()に更新します。

Ray

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