Rayのドイツ音楽留学レポート【第25回】ドイツのおしゃれ

2021年8月7日

こんにちは、Rayです。私はドイツで音楽の勉強をしている大学院生で、オーボエという楽器を専攻しています。

今回は、ドイツでのファッションやメイクについてをテーマに私がドイツで過ごして感じたことを書きます。

ドイツのファッション

ドイツではTシャツとジーンズに寒ければ防寒着、というスタイルが年齢や性別の区別なくデフォルトです。公園で遊んでいるキッズから定年を過ぎた男女まで皆ラフです。

職場の服装規定もそこまで厳しくないだろうと想像できます。役所での手続きの担当者は、男性はチノパンにシャツ、女性はカジュアルなパンツにブラウスであることがほとんどで、スーツ姿のスタッフを見るのは銀行やホールのチケットセンターに行ったときくらいです。

街行く人を見ていても、仕事に行く人とオフモードの人の見分けがつきません。スーツの人は少ないので、街中で見かけると思わず目を止めてしまいます。

普段着はシンプルですが、ハレの日には思いっきりおしゃれをするのがドイツにいる方の傾向です。例えばコンサートやオペラ。ドレスコードは特別な演奏会を除いて基本的にありませんが、コンサート会場には素敵な色のワンピースやかっこいいスーツを身にまとった方が多くいて、会場が華やかな社交の場になります。もちろん普段着の方もいますが、だからといって悪目立ちしたりすることはまずありません。私をはじめ音大生は学校で時間ギリギリまで練習してから会場に行くこともありジーンズ姿の場合も多いですが、自分は自分で、人の格好をそこまで気にしない雰囲気がいいなと感じます。

音大あるあるだと思いますが、校内では、普段着の人と演奏会用のフォーマルな服装の人が混在しています。ドイツの音大では、通常のレッスンでは学生・教授ともにTシャツにジーンズであることが多いですし、練習だけならジャージで学校に行ったとしても特に違和感はありません。日本の音大生の普段着に対する(勝手な)イメージ「ピアノ科・声楽科学生はブラウス、ひざ丈のスカートにパンプス、作曲科・管弦打楽器科学生はジーンズにスニーカーもOK」とは違い、専攻ごとの服装の違いもそこまで大きくはありません。

女子大学生も基本的にはパンツスタイルの人が多く、私が以前ごく普通のロングスカートを履いていったら友人に「おしゃれしているね、今日演奏会でもあるの?」と聞かれたくらいです。

冬の装い

日本よりも寒い冬のドイツ、建物の断熱構造がしっかりしているため、冬の屋外と屋内とではかなりの温度差があります。脱ぎ着して体温調節できる服装でいることが大事です。そのため半袖Tシャツ、長袖シャツ、ネル素材、ニット、コートとまるで玉ねぎのように重ね着をして、暖房の効いた室内ではTシャツ一枚、という学生をよく見ます。重ね着に加えて冬の標準装備には厚手のコートに長ズボン、帽子、マフラー、手袋、ブーツもあります。末端と首を冷やさないように、ということをとにかく意識しているような格好で、私がひざ丈のスカートにタイツを履いていった時には寒くないのかと不思議がられました。(実際寒かったので、その日は結構後悔しました。)

色は暗めを好む人が多く、ただでさえ暗い冬のドイツに追い打ちをかけて暗さが助長される気がします。冬のドイツのファッションは見ていてワクワクはしません。

夏の装い

しかし夏になると特に女性がカラフルになり、日光に照らされて華やかです。本来ドイツの夏は涼しかったそうですが、ここ数年暑さが厳しくなったという話を聞きます。実際今年の6月頃に、私のいる地域は32度くらいまで気温が上がりました。防寒対策しっかりのドイツの建物、夏は熱をため込み本当に暑い!冷房のある家も少ない!ということでむしろ風がある屋外の日陰のほうが快適です。避暑のため夏は皆好んで外で過ごします。このような溶けそうに暑かった日は10~14日ほどで終わり助かりましたが、最近は残念なことに肌寒い日さえあります。

エアコンのない夏のドイツではいかに身体に熱を溜め込まないかが大切で、ワンピースにサンダルの女性、シャツ、半ズボンにサンダルの男性が一気に増えます。そして屋外で過ごす時間が増えるため大体サングラスをかけています。女性のワンピースについては日本では考えられないくらい薄い素材で短い丈のものを履いている人も多いです。胸からお腹に巻き付けた大きいスカーフに、ショートパンツ、という姿の女性を見かけたときは特に驚きました。このような薄手の素材の時も、気温の下がる朝晩に備えて上着を常備する人が多いです。

コロナ禍のため2020年の夏期はほぼ日本にいたため、ドイツで春夏を経験するのは今年が初めてです。冬期しか知らなかった私はこれまで「ドイツ人は地味な色のシャツにパンツで、女性でもスカートはめったに履かないのだろう」というステレオタイプ通りのイメージを持っていました。しかし色であふれている現在のドイツの街を歩いていて、心まで明るくなる毎日でとても嬉しいです。同時に、冬もそれくらいカラフルでいようよ~~~と思ってしまいます。

タトゥー

日本ではあまり歓迎されないタトゥーですが、ドイツではおしゃれの一つとして認識されています。半袖半ズボンの夏、スーパーの店員さんなどでも大小さまざまなタトゥーをしている人もいて、そこが日本とは違うなあと感じます。

デザインも幾何学模様からドラゴン、ハートマークまでいろいろあり、何が書かれているのか思わずじーっと見てしまいます。パートナーと思われる方の名前を刻んでいる人もいて、その方の一途さに感心してしまいました。

メイク

普段大学で見る女性には、リップとマスカラだけ、などの軽めのメイクの方が大勢いる一方、主にアジア系の留学生は毎日とてもきれいにメイクをされている方が多いです。ただ、自分の国にいるときと比べたらメイクが軽くなったという人が多いので、全体的にナチュラルメイクなのだと思います。

ただし、パーティなど特別な日にはばっちりメイクで自分を華やかに見せる人が多いです。ドイツでは傾向として年上の自立した女性に見られることを望む人が多いようで、日本のようなかわいいメイクではなく年を上に見せるような落ち着いたメイク、または強いメイクが人気だそうです。例えば先日行ったナイトクラブで私の前に並んでいた高校生くらいの女子グループの一人は、顔の側面まで届きそうな長いアイラインと目の周り上下ともに2センチはあるのではと思うくらいの真っ黒アイシャドウをしていて、全力で強い女性になっていました。(かなり童顔の人だったので、目の周りの強さと顔の他の部分とのギャップが大きくて少し奇妙な印象を受けたのは事実です。)

まとめ

日本のファッション雑誌で「一週間着回しコーデ」のページがよくあるように、日本では日々のおしゃれが大切だと感じています。この慣れ親しんだ日本の文化と、日常とは違う特別な日に思い切りおしゃれして楽しむドイツの文化のどちらも知ることができて面白いです。私はメイクに対する興味が少ないのでよくわかりませんが、また気づいたことがあれば紹介できるといいなと思っています。

最後までお読みいただきありがとうございました。次回は8月21日(土)に更新します。テーマは「ドイツで買い物」の予定です。

Ray

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