2021年4月17日
こんにちは、Rayです。私はドイツで音楽の勉強をしている大学院生で、オーボエという楽器を専攻しています。
先日私は無事にドイツの家へと帰りつき、気持ち新たに新学期を迎えました。と言いたいところですが、飛行機の貨物室に預けた手荷物が私と同時にはドイツにたどり着きませんでした！トランジット中に発生した手荷物遅延というやつです。カウンターで尋ねたら、私が乗ってきた便の1本次の便に積まれるということまでわかったので、空港でスーツケースの到着を待つことにしました。今はコロナウイルス感染防止策のため空港内の飲食店もテイクアウトのみだったので、机が使えない不便さを感じながら通路のベンチに座ってひたすら待っていました。
日本からはるばる半日かけて移動して、あともう少しだ――――という時に6時間も空港で待つのはなかなかしんどいものでした。ふ～～。
さて今回の記事ではドイツの食事情をお伝えします。
もくじ
伝統的な食事
ドイツの伝統的な食文化は、朝と夜は火を通さない食事、昼は温かい食事をというもので、昼食を一日で最も大切にします。朝と夜の火を通さない冷たい料理は カルテスエッセン (Kaltes Essen)と呼ばれ、パン、ハム、チーズ等が中心です。
写真はオーボエのクラスで合宿に行ったときの朝ごはんですが、冷たい食事といっても多種類のパン、ハム、チーズにジャムなどトッピングが並んでいてなかなか豪華でした。ドイツには何百種類ものパンがあるそうで、実際にパン屋に買いに行ってもその種類の豊富さに目移りしてしまいます。ハム、チーズも同様なので、飽きずにいられます。火を使わず並べるだけのカルテスエッセンですが、なかなか奥深いと思います。
この食事習慣を知ってから、私は「毎食バランスよく食べて健康に過ごす」という考えから、「一食単位ではなくもう少し長いスパンで栄養バランスを整える」ことを意識するようになり、献立を考えるストレスが軽減されました。
食堂
前述の「昼は一日で最も大切な食事時間」、また唯一の温かい食事ということで、ドイツの人は昼にたくさん食べます。
ドイツでも学校や職場には食堂があります。私の通っている学校の食堂では、お盆を取って列に並び、カウンターの向こうにいる職員さんにほしいものを伝えて取り分けてもらいます。主菜、副菜、主食、デザートが日替わりで何種類か揃っていて、好みに応じて組み合わせられます。米やベジタリアンメニュー、サンドイッチなどの軽食もあり、様々な食文化に対応しています。
驚くべきは、職員さんに取り分けてもらう量の多さです。日本での一人前の約1.5倍はあり、もし主菜、副菜、主食全部を盛り付けられたものを平らげると、午後にお腹いっぱいで動けなくなります。ですので、少なめにしてもらったり、選ぶのをメインと野菜だけにして炭水化物を抜いたりして調整しています。
たまに鳥の丸焼きの半身などがメニューに登場しますが、とてもじゃないけど食べきれないし残したらもったいないので、まだ一度も食べたことはありません。それでもいつか思い切りお腹を空かせて挑戦してみたいと思っています。
私の学校の食堂では学生価格で食べられるので、選ぶものにもよりますが一食2.5~5ユーロです。
外食
日本では店を選べば外食しても値段を安く抑えられますが、ドイツには安いレストランはありません。店内で食べる場合は軽減税率が適用されず消費税19%がかかること、食べ物と飲み物をセットで注文しないと店員さんに嫌な顔をさればつが悪いこと、レストランでの食事にチップが必要なこと、が私の考える理由です。
例えばイタリア料理店での食事代はパスタ一人前が10ユーロ前後、飲み物が一杯5ユーロ弱でチップをいくらか払って16~18ユーロ（2000円強）くらいでおそらく最低ラインです。大体20~30ユーロする肉や魚料理を頼んだり、もう少し高級な雰囲気のお店に行ったりするとますます高くなります。
チップ文化
ドイツのチップ（Trinkgeld ）は、レストランやカフェでの会計やタクシーの清算の時、公共のトイレを使う時などに発生します。トイレに清掃員が籠を持って座っていたり、電車の改札の様な機械があったりする場合は、一回0.5〜1ユーロを支払います。
レストランでのチップについては、ガイドブックやウェブサイトには「お釣りの端数や合計額の5~10％を上乗せする」「学生はチップを払わなくてもいい。」などとありますが、自分もウェイターもお互いにいい気分で過ごすために、私は学生であっても懐事情に合わせてチップを払うようにしています。
チップを全く払わず食事をしたこともありますが、ウェイターの態度と接客が変わります。会計が終わってにこりともせずに「じゃ、」と次のテーブルに行ってしまうので、せっかく自分が料理を楽しんでいても心がすっと冷めてしまいます。
「お客様は神様」ではなく店員と対等の立場なので、店員の丁寧なサービスに満足したら感謝の意を込めて渡すのがチップ、というのがドイツでの常識だそうです。学生なので今私が渡せるチップはほんの少し（例えば13.5ユーロの会計だったら切り上げて14ユーロ）ですが、将来的には楽しい時間を過ごしたら少し多めに、などと増減させられるといいなあと思っています。
コンビニ代わりのパン屋とインビス
ドイツにはコンビニがありませんが、コンビニ代わりに、パン屋さんやインビスを利用することがあります。パン屋さんにはパンとコーヒーなどの他に焼き菓子やペットボトルの水も売っています。シンプルなパンは70セントから、サンドイッチ的なものだと3.5~5ユーロくらいです。
小規模の店や屋台やキッチンカーなどで販売する店をインビスと言って、ソーセージ、ケバブ、アジア料理など早く安く提供できる料理を購入することができます。インビスでのソーセージはパンがついて3ユーロくらい、ケバブは4~5ユーロ、焼きそば的なものだとおなか一杯になる量が入っていて5~7ユーロくらいです。
尚、パン屋、インビスにも（コロナ禍の影響を受ける前は）店によってはイートインコーナーがありましたが、たいていの場合は事前清算制なのでチップを渡す必要はありません。
自炊
前述のようにレストランで食べると少し高くつくので、私はよく自炊をします。軽減税率で消費税8％になるスーパーでは食料品が安く買えます。
例えばジャガイモ、玉ねぎなどはネットに入っていて、1キロ1~2.5ユーロくらいです。ほかにもチーズなど乳製品、鶏肉などが日本で買うより安く手に入ります。例えば牛乳は1リットル0.5ユーロくらいからあり、安いのにおいしいです。オーガニック野菜や果物も、売り場の約半分を占めていて、手ごろな値段で入手できます。
番外編：フォークとナイフ
ドイツの学校の食堂で周りが食事する様子を見ていると、一つ、すごいなぁと感心したことがあります。それは、ほぼどんな食事もフォークとナイフで食べることです。一応、カトラリー入れにはスプーンも置いてありますが、スープ以外はなんでもフォークとナイフで食べます。付け合わせのミックスベジタブルもマカロニも、カレーライスなどもです！私には到底できません。
番外編：お弁当
昼食や軽食としてお弁当を持参する人も見かけますが、大変シンプルです。
黒パンにハムとチーズを挟んだサンドイッチ、ナッツ、丸ごとリンゴ、バナナ、トマトや生ニンジン等、手間をかけず簡単に用意できるものを食べています。お弁当箱もプラスチックのタッパーで、無駄が一切ありません。スープジャーやご飯の保温ジャー、はたまたキャラクター弁当などの日本のお弁当文化を知ったら、きっとびっくり仰天するだろうな、と時々考えます。
まとめ
日本食のように見た目の繊細さにこだわって、ということがあまりないからか、ドイツの料理からは全体的に大雑把な印象を受けます。ですがオーガニックの農作物が当たり前に流通していることからもわかるように、食の安全性を重要視したり素材そのものの味を楽しんだりする志向が強いのではないかな、と感じます。練習後に友達がおもむろにバッグからリンゴを取り出して、おいしそうに丸かじりするのを見ると、食文化の差を垣間見ることができて面白いなぁと思います。
文章中に出る日本円は、現在のレートの1ユーロ＝約130円で換算しています。また、物価は私のいる土地での感覚で、ドイツ国内でも場所によって違いがあるかもしれません。
最後までお読みいただきありがとうございました。次回は5月1日(土)に更新します。テーマは「ドイツの食事情その2、スーパーマーケットで見る面白いもの」の予定です。
Ray
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