Rayのドイツ音楽留学レポート【第10回】ドイツの年末年始

2021年1月9日

こんにちは、Rayです。私はドイツで音楽の勉強をしている大学院生で、オーボエという楽器を専攻しています。今年もよろしくお願いいたします。

ドイツの新型コロナウイルス感染状況は悪く、ロックダウンも続きます。先の見えない中ポジティブ思考を保つのは大変ですが、日々の楽しみや小さな目標を見つけて日々過ごしています。

さて、今回は予定を変更して、ドイツの年末年始の様子をつづります。

年越し

花火

ドイツなど西洋諸国の年越しといえば花火です。日本にいた頃「各国の年越しの様子」をニュースで見て、澄んだ冬の空に上がる花火を新鮮に感じました。

しかし旅行と留学とでこれまでに計3回経験したヨーロッパの年越しは、ニュースで見た引き画面から想像するおとなしいものではありませんでした。一度外に出てみたことがありますが、すぐ近くで爆音が響いたり救急車のサイレンが延々と鳴っていたりするカオス状態で、ここは戦場かと思うくらい身の危険を感じました。

というのも、年末花火大会が開催されるというわけではなく、各自がスーパーマーケットなどで買った花火を路上で打ち上げるのです。打ち上げ花火と爆竹の販売は年末の数日間だけ許可され、日本の家庭用花火のような感覚で購入できます。手軽さに反して威力はかなり強く、それを酔っ払った若者があちこちで何発も打ち上げるのです。(記事の最後に動画を付けています。)

今回はコロナ対策のため、ドイツでは花火の販売、公共スペースでの打ち上げが禁止されました。そのため以前よりはましでしたが、それでも静かな年越しとは程遠い世界でした。以前の残りや他の国から個人輸入した花火を各自の庭で打ち上げたのだと思います。大晦日の夕方5時すぎからどこからか音が聞こえはじめ、窓を開けると煙の臭いが漂ってきました。新年になった瞬間バンバン打ち上がって、若者の歓声が聞こえてきました。「窓から花火を投げる」という暴挙に出る人もいて、本当にカオスです。毎年けが人も出るようです…

こんなに騒がしくするのは、大きな音で魔除けをするという昔からの習慣が由来のようです。毎年除夜の鐘を静かに聞いていた(鐘つきに行ったこともある!)私は、まだヨーロッパ式の年越し文化に慣れていませんし、年越しの瞬間を家の外で過ごそう、花火を打ち上げてみようという気は起りません。ですが年越しの花火も除夜の鐘も、新年に良くないものを持ち越さないという共通点があるのは興味深いです。

うるさい

花火をしなくても、大晦日の夜は大勢の人が羽目を外して過ごします。私は今回家にいましたが、隣人も下の階の住人も夕方から夜通しパーティしていて、音楽を大音量で鳴らしていました。

私は学校の課題のキリを付けてから年末気分になりたかったのですが、横と下の部屋からのベース音、外から花火・爆竹の破裂音が聞こえる中取り組むのは難しく、「うるさいいいいいいいい!」と若干キレながら課題をしていました。「夜は静かに」という規則のあるドイツでは普段シャワーの音にも気を遣いますが、大晦日の一日はうんざりするほどうるさいです。(前回はあまりにもうるさくて耳栓を付けて寝ていました。)

年明け

ドイツでは年末・年越しのほうが元旦以降よりも大切です。大晦日にしっかり羽目を外して、元旦は特に何をするでもなく遅くまで寝ているそうです。今年の元日の午後に街を歩いたときも、外出している人はほぼいませんでした。

1月1日はドイツでも祝日ですが、 2日からは基本的に通常営業、仕事始めです。ただし2021年のカレンダーは1日が金曜日、2~3日は土日なので、正月三が日の気分で過ごせました。

年末年始につきもののアレ、ドイツでは…?

年賀状

私は昔から年賀状でいっぱいの郵便受けを開けて1枚1枚読む時間がとても好きです。

ドイツでは年賀状ではなくクリスマスカードを送ります。本屋さんにいくつものカードが置いてあるので、見るたびに癒されます。もちろん、SNSなどでクリスマスと新年のあいさつをすることもとても多いです。

年賀状につきものの干支はアジア圏に広く知られているので、アジアからの留学生との話題にできると思います。

食べ物

友人の話によると、大晦日にベルリナーという、ミスドのエンゼルクリームに見た目が似ている甘いパンや、スイス発祥のラクレットを食べる人が多いようです。私は今回年越し蕎麦を作りました(ドイツでもアジアスーパーで手に入ります!)が、いつかドイツの食べ物で年越しするのもいいなと思っています。

前述のとおり、正月を祝う文化がないため、おせち料理に相当するものはドイツにはありません。

親戚の集まり

日本とドイツでは、クリスマスと年末年始の意味合いがちょうど逆転しているのではないかな、と私は思っています。ドイツのクリスマスは家族と、大晦日は友人たちと過ごす日、というのが一般的です。

ちなみにイスラム圏から来た友人に聞いたところ、同じように家族・親戚で集まる日はあって、それは5月の断食明けの数日間だと教えてくれました。きっと他の文化圏にも何かしら親族との日は存在するのだろうな、と思います。

ちなみにお年玉文化はドイツにはありませんが、クリスマスプレゼントを家族みんなで交換するようです。近所に住むドイツ人学生が「この前お母さんにピアスを買ったの。絶対似合うと思って!」と嬉しそうに教えてくれて、私もつられてほっこりする、ということがありました。

縁起物

ドイツで縁起が良いとされているものは豚、四つ葉のクローバー、煙突掃除屋さん、キノコ、テントウムシ、蹄鉄(馬のひづめを守るU字の金具)、などです。新年に限ったものではありませんが、クリスマスが終わるとそのようなイラストが描かれたコップやチョコレートなどをお店でよく見かけるようになります。

大掃除

ドイツには年末大掃除の伝統はなさそうです。恐らく、綺麗好きな人が多いので年末にわざわざ掃除する必要がないからでは、と私は思っています。

年末大掃除するのは日本だけかな、と思っていましたが、私の隣人のロシア、ルーマニアからの留学生も大晦日に大掃除していました!東欧にはそういう伝統があるんじゃないかな~と言っていたので、とても親近感がわきました。ちなみにルーマニアから来た彼女はコロナ対策のため家にいたにもかかわらず、掃除の後、ドレスアップ・メイクアップをして年越しをしたそうです。

国によって、人によって少しずつ違う習慣を知るのがとても楽しいです。

第九公演

少なくとも私の住む街の劇場では、年末にベートーヴェンの第九を演奏する伝統があります。第九の演奏で忙しいのは日本だけだと思っていたので、驚きました。そして大晦日に第九を終えたら花火とお酒で年越しをして、元旦にはもうオペラの公演があるそうです。

正月恒例のオペラ、というものは特になく、有名どころ、ハッピーエンドもの、華やかなものが取り上げられるようです。

今年は公演が何にもなく寂しかったけど、ゆっくり年越しと正月を楽しめたのでそれはそれで良かった、と劇場に勤める友人が話していました。

まとめ

時差のため、ドイツは日本の8時間後に新年を迎えます。今年私はドイツにいたにもかかわらず、日本にいる家族や友達ともオンラインで大晦日を過ごすことができました。年末年始をきっかけに繋がりを再確認できたことは、特にコロナのせいでストレスのたまることの多い日常の癒しになりました。

最後に、ドイツの年末の騒々しさを、家の窓から撮った動画で聞いてみてください。この威力の花火を一般の人が扱っていること、煙臭いこと、例年はこの10倍くらい激しいことを考えると、日本とは全然違うなあと思うばかりです。

最後までお読みいただきありがとうございました。

次回は1日23(土)に更新します。テーマは「ドイツの音大の授業 その2」として前回の記事の続編を書く予定です。

Ray

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