Ray のドイツ音楽留学レポート【第 46 回 】ドイツの地理

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こんにちは、Rayです。私はドイツで音楽の勉強をしている大学院生で、オーボエという楽器を専攻しています。

留学生活も2年半を越えました。コロナ禍と被っているため自由にいろいろなところに行くことが 難しい期間が続きましたが、それも最近緩和されてきました。少しずつドイツ国内を旅行する機会が増えてきたので、今回は「ドイツという国」について、地方の特色の強いドイツをざっくりと分けて紹介したいと思います。

北部

ドイツは海のない地域がほとんどですが、北部には北海とバルト海に面した地域があり、夏には観光客がビーチを求めてやってきます。リューベックなど、航路による貿易で栄えたハンザ同盟が元になった街が多くあるほか、ドイツでは珍しい、魚を使った伝統料理が食べられます。ドイツの中では北欧から近く行き来が昔からあった影響からか、ドイツの他地域とは少し違った北欧風の建築物を見ることができます。

北ドイツの人は、もごもごと口をあまり大きくは開けずに話す人が多いと思っています。声が聞き取りにくいこともありますが、ドイツ語学習のための教材で聞いた標準語に近い言葉を話していると感じます。(コテコテの北ドイツ方言もあると聞いてインターネットで探したことがありますが、聞き慣れたもごもごのトーンで全く違う言葉を話しているように聞こえました。)

北ドイツの人がよく使うあいさつにMoin moin! (モインモイン)というかわいい響きの言葉がありますが、英語の Helloのようにいつでもだれにでも使えるので便利です。

ベルリン

ベルリンは人口 300万人以上、900 km²近い面積があり、ドイツの中ではかなり大きい都市です。一つの市でベルリン州を形成していて、他の州と同じレベルの行政を行います。日本での政令指定都市と似たものものだと思っています。(ドイツ国内にはハンブルク州とブレーメン州と合わせて3つの都市州があります。)

東西ドイツ時代にはベルリンの壁が存在し、ドイツ統一後に首都となって整備が進みました。そのため比較的新しい建物が多く、街として今まだ発展しているようです。

私はよくベルリンで演奏会やオペラを楽しむのですが、催し物の数が多くいつもどこに行こうか迷います。少し前に、ベルリンに 3つあるオペラハウスのうち2つが、同日同時刻に同じオペラ(モーツァルトのドンジョバンニ)を上演していたことがあり驚きました。

東部

バッハ、シューマン、ゲーテ、ルターなど多くの文化人のゆかりの地域です。東部にはライプツィヒ・ドレスデンなどの古都がある他、陶磁器で知られるマイセンなどの伝統工芸で有名な街もあります。私はドイツ東部には数時間駆け足の観光をしたことがあるのみですが、いつか時間があるときにゆっくり旅行して、ドレスデンの有名な「ゼンパーオーパー」でオペ ラを見ようと夢見ています。

ザクセンと呼ばれるこの地方の方言は、他の地方のドイツ人に言わせると癖が強く間抜けに響くそうで、飲み会で誰かがジョークとしてまねているのをよく聞きます。

中部

私の住んでいる標高低めの臨海地域と、山間の街が多いドイツ中部では標高と気圧が大きく変わります。オーボエ演奏に必要なリード(葦を加工した吹き口)の調子が変わってしまうので、中部ドイツにオーボエ演奏に行くとなかなか大変です。

その他、このあたりの木の色は日本や北ドイツの木よりも濃く茂っています。さらに街に多く見られる木組みの家と相まってグリム童話の世界のようなファンタジー感と、その周りを覆う暗い森の怖さを感じます。旧東ドイツと西ドイツの境界があった地域であるほか、複数の州境が入り組んでいるので、地図を見ながら鉄道旅をしていると混乱してくる地域です。

西部

国際空港があるフランクフルト、日本街があるデュッセルドルフ、大聖堂が有名なケルンなどの街がライン川沿いに続いています。小学校の社会科で出てきたルール工業地帯があり、(私のいる街よりははるかに)経済規模の大きい地域だと思います。

ライン川沿いに古城がたくさんあるようで、歴史が好きな私としてはいつか古城巡りに行きたいなと思っています。西部の方言は北部と比べると明るいトーンで発音がもごもごせず、陽気に聞こえます。

南部

ミュンヘンやシュトゥットガルトなどの大きい都市があります。特にバイエルン地方はドイツ旅行定番の観光スポットで、日本のガイドブックにもオクトーバーフェストで 1リッ トルジョッキを片手に笑う写真や、シンデレラ城のモデルとなったノイシュバンシュタイン城の特集などを始め、たくさんページが割かれています。シュトゥットガルトにはドイツの自動車メーカーの本社があります。

その他南部の方言は標準ドイツ語とは使用する単語がかなり違うほか、文化も人の気質も独特だそうです。(と、北部に住むいろいろな人が言っています。)

まとめ

今回は、私の住んでいる北ドイツから順にドイツの各地域をざっくりと紹介してみました。このほかにもドイツの16州ごと、より細かい地域ごとに特徴が違うので、新鮮な驚きを旅行中に感じられるのが面白いです。

最後までお読みいただきありがとうございます。学期末の時期に入り、目が回るほど学業が忙しくなってきたため、しばらく更新をお休みいたします。次回更新日は未定とさせて頂きますが、また張り切って更新する日まで、どうか皆様お元気にお過ごしください。

Ray

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